The Kimono Gallery

Select vintage and antique Kimonos

Item Details
Late Meiji to mid-Taisho (1900-1920)
rinzu silk haori featuring an intricate shibori rivulets-patterned background and hand-pigment-dyed fan motifs, with silk and metallic insert and embroidery highlights. 49" (122cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end x 39" (97cm) height. At first glance an unassuming garment, the existence of this remarkable jacket was the result of work by very sophisticated and talented artists. Our understanding of the elaborate steps involved in creating this haori is as follows; Step 1: Creation of a bolt of off-white figured silk (with the figuring being fan motifs). Step 2: taking this bolt of cloth and inserting shibori-preparation threads in about 40,000 locations on the bolt (the most shibori detail we gave seen), then dyeing the bolt a dark greenish-blue color, and then removing the stitches to yield an overall rivulets pattern. Step 3: A smokey effect is created by lightly adding a brownish pigment over areas. Step 4: the figured-silk fans are hand-painted with a dark-green pigment - this is the only cloth that we have seen the technique of pigmenting a rinzu base with the same motif. The result is that the resulting fan motifs possess a complex texture. Step 5: The bolt of cloth is cut and hand-stitched in the haori. Step 6: Gold metallic thread inserts, gold metallic embroidery, and silk sagara embroidery highlights are added. The single mon (family crest at the upper center back is silk embroidered with fine silver metallic embroidered highlights.
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