This silk 'susohiki,' a trailing kimono for dance purposes, features yuzen-painted portraits of renowned stage actors and embellished with embroidery highlights. Adorned with five mon (family crests), it measures 50 inches (127 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and stands at 68 inches (173 cm) in height.
A 'susohiki' is a formal dance kimono worn by maiko (apprentice geisha) and geisha, designed to trail on the ground. Typically, susohiki have a padded hem for a more attractive drape. They are longer than standard kimonos and are not meant to be folded over at the hip like modern kimonos. This garment, designed to be worn closed in front and tied with an obi, signifies its distinction from the wedding uchikake, which is worn open at the front without an obi.
The susohiki in question, adorned with famous kabuki stage actors and a bamboo fence motif at the bottom, likely alludes to a specific performance. Its intricacy and artistry indicate it was a costly commission, crafted by a talented textile artist. This garment would have been worn by a senior and affluent geisha for significant stage dance performances.
This artwork is featured on page 59 of Art Kimono: Aesthetic Revelations of Japan, 1905-1960. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here. The piece is also illustrated on page 398 of our other book, Ceremonial Textiles of Japan, 18th to 20th Centuries, which can be found here
This piece also featured on page 134 of the January-February 2018 edition of Arts of Asia.