This exceptional uchikake follows the goshodoki style, which draws inspiration from the older female samurai attire of the Edo era. Goshodoki, known as palace style, often depicts slightly formal scenes, sometimes imaginative or suggesting specific stories or Noh plays. During the earlier Edo era, wedding garments in this style were usually fully embroidered. However, this particular piece diverges from the norm as it is painted using yuzen and hand bokashi techniques, incorporating embroidery and metallic couching instead of complete embroidery. The masterful painting technique creates an almost pastel-like effect in some areas. The silk taffeta fabric, favored by female samurai, suggests that this textile might have been intended for a woman from a former samurai family.

This artwork is featured on pages 354-3357 of Ceremonial Textiles of Japan, 18th to 20th Centuries. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.

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