This striking sheer kinsha silk hitoe summer kimono showcases embroidered and yuzen-dyed carp motifs. It measures 50 inches (127 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and stands at 57 inches (145 cm) in height. Carps, known as 'koi' in Japan, symbolize love and friendship towards one's lover on this woman's kimono. They also represent strength, survival, and the honor of choosing an independent life path in Japanese tradition.
Crafted at considerable expense by master artisans, this kimono features a very fine crepe silk that ceased production after the mid-20th century. The particular kinsha used for this piece displays a rinzu (damask) pattern: the water patterns in plain crepe and the rest in a distinct abstract ribbed texture, evident in the detail images.
The carps were created using three different techniques: the distant ones, faintly visible, are embroidered with white thread; those closer with silver metallic thread, while the prominent seventeen dark carps in the foreground were intricately painted using the time-consuming yuzen-dyeing method.
The white and silver carp are embroidered using the 'fuzzy effect' technique, recognized as the highest form of dignity in Japanese embroidery. This technique involves laying parallel stitches that don't touch, allowing the background fabric to peek through, resulting in an extremely subtle and nuanced effect, as evident in this exceptional kimono.
This artwork is featured on page 211 of Art Kimono: Aesthetic Revelations of Japan, 1905-1960. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.